01 / Types
What types of home lift are there?
Four types cover most Australian homes. Each one changes what you'll spend on building works.
Retrofit favourite
Compact and cabin platform lifts
Often "shaftless": the lift has its own enclosure and sits on a shallow recess or the floor. Slower, fewer people, and some need the button held while travelling. Good for two or three levels and tight footprints.
Low-rise
Hydraulic lifts
A ram pushes the car up and lowers it under control. Smooth ride, and it can take a wheelchair and carer. Usually needs a pit, a built shaft and room nearby for a small pump unit.
More levels
Traction and machine-room-less (MRL) lifts
Ropes or belts, a counterweight and a motor in the shaft. The closest thing to a commercial lift in a house. Needs a built shaft, a pit and some headroom above the top floor.
Minimal pit
Pneumatic or vacuum lifts
Runs in a clear tube and moves on air pressure. Little or no pit and no separate shaft, so it suits retrofits. Cars are small, and capacity and wheelchair access are limited on most models.
02 / Prices
What does a home lift cost in Australia?
These are broad market ranges from published Australian price guides, for supply and installation only. Every house is different, so use them to set a budget, not as a quote.
| Lift type | Typical market range (supply and install) |
|---|---|
| Compact / shaftless home lift | about $25,000 to $60,000 |
| Shafted home lift (hydraulic or traction) | about $50,000 to $120,000 |
| Pneumatic / vacuum lift | about $45,000 to $95,000 |
Check whether each quote includes GST and builder's works. Shaft construction, the pit, structural changes and the power supply are usually priced by your builder and electrician, not the lift supplier.
03 / Cost drivers
What drives the cost?
- Number of floors. Every extra stop adds landing doors, guide rail, wiring and install time.
- Shaft or shaftless. A built shaft adds builder's cost but opens up faster, bigger and tougher lifts. Shaftless saves building work but limits capacity and speed.
- Building works. Pit excavation, slab penetrations, framing, fire separation, waterproofing and finishes. In an existing home this is often the biggest variable.
- Electrical. A dedicated circuit, sometimes three-phase, a lighting circuit and a phone or monitoring line. An older switchboard may need an upgrade first, and that adds real cost.
- Approvals. Many installs need building approval and certification. Local planning rules can apply too. Check with your certifier early.
- Car size and finishes. Wheelchair-sized cars, glass, automatic doors and custom finishes all push the price up.
- Site access. Tight sites, cranes, stairs and long carries from the street add labour and time.
04 / Running costs
Running and servicing costs
A home lift uses little electricity. The real ongoing cost is servicing. A single service visit is typically from about $380, depending on travel to the site. A maintenance contract can cost a good deal more, depending on the lift and what the contract covers.
Read what the contract covers. A service visit is not the same as cover for breakdowns, callouts and parts. Ask where parts come from, how long they take, and whether another contractor can service the lift if you change later. Proprietary equipment can lock you in.
05 / Before you sign
What to ask suppliers
- What's in the price, and what's out?
- What builder's works, pit depth, headroom and power does the lift need? Can you give my builder drawings?
- Does the price include GST?
- What standards does the lift meet, and who certifies it on completion?
- What happens in a power failure, and how does someone trapped get help?
- What's the warranty, what does it cover, and does it depend on you servicing the lift?
- What does servicing cost after the warranty, and what does that cover?
- Where are spare parts held, and can another contractor maintain this lift?
Get at least three quotes on the same basis. If they're built on different assumptions, you can't compare them.
06 / Adapt
Where we fit in
We're a Gold Coast lift and electrical contractor. On home lift projects we're usually brought in for the electrical side and for servicing once the lift is in.
Electrical
Power for the lift
Dedicated lift circuit, lighting circuit, switchboard upgrades and three-phase supply.
Lifts
Advice
Not sure what your house needs? We can talk you through the options and what the building work involves.
Ongoing
Servicing
Lift servicing and repairs, with clear pricing on what each visit or contract covers.
Questions? Send us an enquiry or call 0408 766 615.
07 / FAQ
Frequently asked questions
What is the cheapest type of home lift?
Compact, shaftless platform lifts are usually the lowest upfront cost, because they skip most of the shaft construction. They are also the most limited in speed, size and capacity.
Do I need council or building approval for a home lift?
Often, yes. Requirements vary by state and by the type of work. Talk to a building certifier before you lock in a design.
Can a lift be added to an existing house?
Yes. Shaftless and pneumatic lifts are common for retrofits. The main limits are floor space, the structure above and below, and a clear path between levels. Power is the other one: check your switchboard early.
How long does a home lift take to install?
It depends on the lift and the building works. Manufacturing lead times are often longer than the install itself. Ask for a program that covers both.
What power does a home lift need?
Usually a dedicated circuit, plus a lighting circuit and a phone or monitoring line. Some lifts need three-phase power, and older switchboards may need an upgrade first.